Nowadays, it is popular to buy people’s used clothing and accessories. After the Covid pandemic, the value of the second-hand clothing market rose to $211 billion, a figure that is expected to rise as the thrift culture gains momentum around the world.
The fast fashion industry has always been associated with large-scale environmental and human rights concerns, which is why it has been under immense scrutiny.
Environmentalists have for many years reported concerns about waste generation, carbon emissions and labor exploitation in the textile industry, which thrives on creating poorly made products to keep up with fashion trends. In a highly consumerist world, with too many clothes thrown into landfills, will economics be the answer to our fast fashion problems?
In India, saving is evolving in online spaces with some offline markets in cities like BombayNew Delhi, Puneetc Calcutta. Urban youth has been the driving force of this culture.
“I like thrift because it’s affordable, but most importantly it’s sustainable. I love fashion, but I don’t like contributing to fast fashion brands that add so much textile waste,” says Krish Nerurkar, an environmentally conscious student from Pune. “I also recycle secondhand finds by painting or embroidering them to make custom pieces. This way, the style doesn’t burn a hole in my pocket.”
Urban youth has been the driving force of this culture. (Express Photo)
Self-expression at minimal cost
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Thrifting has gained popularity among students because they can enjoy forms of self-expression at minimal cost. It is also a great social activity where one can walk around the city and shop with like-minded people, fashion sense, and political will to protect the planet.
“I thrift because my taste in fashion is quite whimsical and different from the mass-produced stuff you get at chain stores like H&M and Zara. It’s also fun to just walk around and browse clothes with your friends with a coffee in hand,” explains Sarah Katherine, an avid fashion enthusiast.
However, Katherine believes that the savings culture in India is still quite nascent. She describes some of her struggles with saving in Pune: “Malaysia has been my favorite country for saving because the saving culture there is quite organized. However, in Pune, offline saving is mostly limited to street shopping, where sellers often move or close due to local regulations.”
The general consensus on thrifting in India is that although the offline market is unorganized, if you are patient you can find rare fashion gems and wardrobe staples.
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Online stores have also responded to the growing demand for second-hand items. Asmi Kulkarni, founder of a thrift store, aims to create a conscious, community-driven fashion space where clothes do not go to waste and people benefit together.
Thrifting has gained popularity among students because they can enjoy forms of self-expression at minimal cost. (Express Photo)
“A lot of my sourcing comes from people around me, friends, acquaintances or known contacts, who have clothes that no longer fit or suit their style, but are still in excellent condition. They give me these pieces to resell and we mutually decide on a fair price. Once the item is sold, 60 per cent of the amount goes back to them, so it’s a profit-sharing model,” says Kulkarni.
Kulkarni also says that platforms like Instagram have made saving more accessible and relatable, making it a trend that everyone can subscribe to. In Pune, second-hand stores can be found in Shivajinagar, Camp and MG Road, besides some online.
History shows that times of economic and social uncertainty often give rise to countercultures that challenge dominant norms. The way people dress is one of the most visible indicators of that change. Post-pandemic and amid growing disillusionment with fast fashion, young Indians are turning to used clothing as a way to challenge overconsumption and existing ethical norms.
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What may seem like “anti-culture” to mainstream retail is actually a deeply human instinct to adapt, resist excess, and find meaning in unprecedented times. As this culture continues to evolve in India, it reflects not just a shift in wardrobes, but a broader rethinking of the values shared by Generation Z.
Shreenija Dandavate is an intern at The indian expressPune.