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Why Mumbai is mourning the sudden closure of its most iconic 112-year-old Iranian cafe

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It seems that B Merwan & Co of Grant Road has drawn its curtains, this time, perhaps forever. News of the iconic 112-year-old Iranian cafe’s closure emerged after Facebook page Zoroastrian Heritage shared a post by Viraf Langrana, which showed a photograph of a notice plastered on the cafe’s shutter.

The handwritten note, dated January 1, 2026, reads simply: “We are closed. We thank you for your patronage.”

The post sparked a flood of nostalgia, with customers remembering the cafe’s coffee. mawa cake, paav omelet and maska ​​bun. “Oh, he used to visit me daily ek (one) cup of chai and five glucose biscuits for just 25 paise in 1978,” wrote one user. Another added: “It was a ritual to bring dozens of mawa cakes for cousins ​​and friends every time I visited. Now it seems that it will not be the same.”

The handwritten note, dated January 1, 2026, reads simply: A handwritten note taped to its doors, dated January 1, 2026, reads simply: “We are closed. We thank you for your patronage.” (Express photo by Sankhadeep Banerjee)

Along with memories there were speculations. One user claimed that city authorities had revoked the cafe’s license to use wood-fired ovens, allegedly asking owners to switch to gas or electric alternatives. Another suggested rumors of a possible acquisition. However, none of these claims could be independently verified.

A centenary legacy
B Merwan & Co was founded in 1914 by Boman Merwan Nazarabadi, who emigrated from Iran to Bombay in search of a better life. It was set up opposite Grant Road station, a strategic location that attracted travelers from as far away as Virar, Andheri and Borivali, many of whom stopped by for a quick cup of chai and a slice of mawa cake.

B Merwan & Co. Once upon a time. Express photo of Abhijit Alka Anil on 28-5-16 in Mumbai The interior view of B Merwan & Co in this file photo. (Express file photo by Abhijit Alka Anil)

“There was nothing like this in Bombay then – no places to get quick snacks,” his grandson, Boman Nazarabadi, once said in an interview. He joined the business in 1951 after college, along with his brother Soroush. “We are the third generation. Many of the Iranian places have changed now, they have become Chinese, pizzerias or breweries. I wouldn’t like that! No, I wouldn’t like it, old is gold,” he had said.

Coffee was best known for its moisture. mawa cakes, which are often sold out in the afternoon. Regulars fondly remember its glass-topped wooden tables, distinctive Iranian chairs, red checkered tablecloths and its affordability that stood out amid rising food prices in Mumbai.

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In 2014, the cafe closed briefly (what many feared would be a permanent closure) only to reopen weeks later after repair work. It is not yet clear if this moment marks the end. Bakers across the city said they were unaware of a confirmed closure. Yazdani owner Perzon Zend said he had no information but spoke fondly of B Merwan. mawa pastries, while De La Paix’s Gustad Irani said he had heard murmurs but did not know if a final decision had been made.

Heena Khandelwal is a special correspondent for The Indian Express, Mumbai. It covers a wide range of topics, from relationships and gender to theater and food. To get in touch, write to heena.khandelwal@expressindia.com …Read more

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